This Child's Antique Mirror Makes an Adorable Papeweight... Perfect for Quick Makeup Checks at Work

The centerpiece of this paperweight design is an antique hand mirror from a child's set.  It's made of nickel plated metal that I was able to brighten up with a little silver polish.

When the mirror is set it against a background of vintage-inspired paper, it's transformed into a special and unique piece.  It's also something you can keep within reach for those times you need to do a quick check of your hair or makeup at work.

I used the Large Rectangle Paperweight Kit (PhotoWeights: Large Rectangle) for this project.  The only other supplies I used included a scrap of decorative paper, the mirror, and some ribbon.  A hot glue gun was also used.

The first step to creating a paperweight that features a dimensional object is to create a background for the object to be adhered to.  This is done by applying paper, fabric, or other type of material to the self-adhesive mounting board that's included with each PhotoWeights paperweight kit.

In the image above, the adhesive side of the black mounting board was placed on the reverse side of a piece of decorative, floral paper.  (The floral paper had another design printed on the reverse side.)

After your background is attached to your mounting board, use a pair of sharp scissors to trim any material that extends beyond the edge of the board.  (The board acts as an excellent cutting guide.)

I tied a small bow around the handle of the mirror to dress it up a little.  The green bow coordinates with a color found on the floral paper I used.

Tip:  Double check to make certain your mirror and any embellishments you add will fit within the display area of your paperweight, especially the depth.

After I cleaned the mirror, I placed it on the mounting board and centered it.

Because I'll be using hot melt glue, there will be little opportunity to reposition the mirror once it's glued down.  I used removable tape (washi tape) as a guide to mark where the left and right of the mirror should be positioned.

The center of the back of the mirror is slightly raised, so I applied the hot glue around the center to avoid adding any additional thickness to the final design.  A dab of glue was also placed on the handle for added support.

After the mirror was secured in place, the guide tape was easily removed.

The mounting board (with mirror attached) was placed face-down into the recessed area on the bottom of the paperweight.

I finished the paperweight by applying the self-adhesive bottom pad, included with each PhotoWeights paperweight kit.

FINDING A MIRROR

Antique mirrors such as the one I used may be found on websites such as Etsy.com and Ebay.com. You need a smaller mirror which may be described as a toy mirror, doll mirror, or child's mirror.

Most craft stores sell small, thin, unframed mirrors that are perfect for creating mirrored paperweight designs.  You may also be able to use the mirror from an old compact.

Framing a Photo in a Paperweight - Greeting Card Background with a Metal Frame Embellishment

This is the second paperweight design in my series on framing photographs.

If you're looking for easy ways to incorporate images into your designs, this step-by-step project can be modified to create a variety of different looks.

You'll need a few basic elements to replicate this layout.  I used the Oval Paperweight Kit (PhotoWeights: Oval), a greeting card, and a metal frame from a set of embellishments.  I'll point out some alternate materials as we go along.

I'm always using portions of greeting cards in my paperweight designs, especially greeting cards that are beautifully embossed with gold detailing.  In place of a greeting card you can use a scrap of decorative paper or fabric. Just be certain the material you use isn't too thick to fit within the paperweight you're using.

I used the display area template for the Oval paperweight (PhotoWeights: Display Area Template) to choose just the right area for my design before tracing a cut line.

TIP:  If you take one of our templates to the gift shop, you can see exactly how the design on a greeting card will fit within your paperweight.

 

Using a pair of sharp scissors, I cut along the traced line.

The cut-out from the card was affixed to the self-adhesive mounting board (included in each paperweight kit).

I created a reference mark in the center of the background, using a ruler as a guide.

The metal frame I used is the smallest of two included in a package.  These are made by Momenta.  Your local craft store should have a selection of embellishment frames to choose from in a variety sizes, shapes, colors, materials, and finishes.

If you'd like your frame to be a particular color, you can always paint it to match.

When you're working with the Oval Paperweight Kit, as well as other paperweight styles that limit the thickness of the items you can display, be sure to choose frames with a thin profile that will fit comfortably.

The 'x' I marked on the background helped me center the frame.  Once I checked the frame with a ruler to make sure there was an even amount of distance on all sides, I traced around the inside opening of the frame (in case the frame shifted).  I wrote down the distance between the edges of the frame to the end of the mounting board.

The frame I chose has a center opening that measures 1" square.  The photo was sized in a photo editing program to slightly more than 1".  When I cut the photo out, I left some additional material so there would be enough paper to glue to the frame.

Be sure to trim the photo if any edges are visible from underneath the outside edge of the frame.

The frame originally had two strips of self-adhesive foam tape on the back that I removed.

I applied glue around the opening for the photograph, making sure I used just enough to hold the photo in place.

When I'm working with metal, my favorite glue is Liquid Fusion from iLoveToCreate.  It's a clear urethane glue that's transparent and works well with both porous and smooth surfaces.

To prevent any glue from getting onto my work surface, I placed the photo on a scrap of cardboard and lowered the frame (with glue on the reverse side) onto it.

Let this set for about 5-10 minutes or until the photo is securely attached.

Now that the glue between the frame and the photo has set, you can apply adhesive to the back of the photograph.  Keep the adhesive from the edges so you can make adjustments without getting glue onto the background surrounding the frame.

Using your marks as a reference, place the frame in the center of your background.  Use the measurements you wrote down previously (the distance between the outside edges of the frame and the end of the mounting board) to make adjustments so it's perfectly centered.

Here's a close-up view showing the embossing and gold detailing of the greeting card artwork.

IMPORTANT

Before you seal your finished work in the paperweight, it's important to allow the adhesive to dry completely.  If you don't, evaporation from the glue may cause the inside of your paperweight to become cloudy.  I always recommend waiting 24-hours, depending on the type of adhesive and how thick it's applied.

Clean your paperweight with a streak-free glass cleaner to remove any dirt, dust, or finger prints.

After the glue in your artwork has had time to dry, place the mounting board face-down in to the recessed area on the bottom of the paperweight.

To finish, apply the self-adhesive bottom pad (included with each paperweight kit) across the bottom surface of the paperweight.

When you order a paperweight kit at PhotoWeights.com, you can select your bottom pad in your choice of three colors; black, burgundy, or green (shown above).  The only exceptions are the Dome, Heirloom Dome, and Deep Dome.  These styles are only available with black pads.

Framing a Photo in a Paperweight - Pearls & Glitter

I wanted to start a new series of designs that will focus on gorgeous, creative ways to frame photographs within your paperweights.

The first paperweight in this series requires just a few supplies and tools to create a vintage-inspired design that will beautifully frame a modern or period photograph.  Although I used pearls for this paperweight, you can use other bead and background colors to create a completely different look.

To re-create this paperweight, you'll need the following iems:  Heirloom Dome Paperweight Kit (PhotoWeights: Heirloom Dome), two sizes of pearl beads (4mm and 8mm), swatch of paper in a color of your choice, clear glitter, white glue, Aleene's Tacky Glue, and a 1" circle hole punch.

The first step to creating this paperweight design is to trace the area from your circle hole punch onto the background paper you're using.  I did this by punching a hole in a business card and tracing within the opening.

The 1" circle was traced onto the paper first so I could use this as a center reference when I traced a larger circle that's the size of the Heirloom Dome's display area (PhotoWeights: Display Area Template).

Using a pair of sharp scissors, I cut along the outside line.

Many hand-held hole punches available in craft stores limit the distance you can punch from the edge of the paper.  To compensate for this, I cut a straight line to remove enough paper to allow me to punch out the circle I traced earlier.

Because the paper will be covered in the final design, the seam that will be left won't be visible.

Center the traced circle into the viewing window of the hole punch, usually found on the bottom.  Once centered, punch out the desired area.

The hole punched into the background paper will frame your photograph.

 

After you've cut your photograph to fit within the 1" circle, apply white glue (Elmer's is just fine) around the opening.  Be sure to spread the glue evenly to prevent it from seeping out from underneath.

After the glue used in the previous step has set for a few minutes, you can apply the piece to the adhesive side of the mounting board (included with each PhotoWeights paperweight kit).  Also affix the small portion of paper that was cut earlier.

Now that the photo and background paper are attached to the mounting board, it's time to get to work!

I applied Aleene's Tacky Glue around the photograph.  (I prefer to use tacky glue for this type of application because it's thick and stays in place.  It also remains flexible while it's drying, making adjustments easy.)   If you don't apply enough glue to fit two rows of beads, you can always add more glue later.

I used two sizes of beads in this paperweight, 4mm and 8mm.  The 4mm beads were applied first, circling the photo.  The 8mm beads followed.  Be sure none of the holes in the beads face upward.

After all the pearls are in place, you can make any necessary adjustments to even out the spacing and make sure the holes aren't visible from above.

I didn't want to leave the paper around the pearls untouched, so I decided to cover this area with clear glitter.  To do this, I started by brushing a layer of white glue outside the larger row of beads.

With the piece over a small bowl, I sprinkled the clear glitter onto the white glue.  Tap the edge of the card onto your work surface to remove excess glitter.

Here is a photo of the finished work, ready to display in the paperweight.

VERY IMPORTANT

One thing that's difficult to capture in photos is the amount of drying time that is required before you can place your finished artwork in the paperweight.

If you seal up your paperweight while the glue is wet, evaporation from the glue will cause the inside of your paperweight to become cloudy and humid.

I recommend allowing your artwork to dry for at least 24-hours.  When the glue is completely dry, check to make sure all the beads are securely in place.  You should also remove any stray particles of glitter with a small, dry paint brush and/or gentle puffs from a can of compressed air.

To finish your paperweight, center your artwork onto the adhesive side of the bottom pad and press it in place to secure.

After you've cleaned your paperweight with streak-free glass cleaner, apply the bottom pad face-down onto the base of the paperweight.

Antique, French Playing Cards Showcased in a Glass Paperweight

I haven't worked with our Large Round Paperweight Kit for a while, so I thought I'd design a project especially for this style.

The Large Round has just a light recess on the bottom, so you're limited to displaying very thin objects such as photographs and artwork printed on paper.  Because I'm adding some antique, French playing cards, I'll be excluding the mounting board to conserve some much needed space.

The playing cards I'm using are smaller than the cards we're accustomed to in the United States.  They measure 2 1/2" x 1 13/16" which makes them perfect for paperweight designs.  (I'll provide more information about these cards later in this post.)  I also used a sheet of striped scrapbooking paper from a paper stack pad. 

The paperweight kit (PhotoWeights: Large Round) is available on our website at PhotoWeights.com.

In order to conserve some space (thickness), I won't be using a mounting board for this project.  Instead, I'm using a template (PhotoWeights: Display Area Template) to trace an outline in pencil that's the exact size of the mounting board.

After I cut along the pencil line I traced , the scrapbook paper is the perfect size.  If any traces of pencil remain along the edge, use an eraser to gently remove them.

The antique cards I'm using were made by B.P. Grimaud in Paris.  Some of Grimaud's cards are more plain than these.  Others come in themed editions that are much more beautifully illustrated.  I paid about $10.00 for two of these decks at a flea market.  You can also find full and partial decks on Ebay and Etsy from time-to-time.

If you have some antique or collectible cards of your own, I would recommend researching them on Google, Worthpoint, or Ebay before you begin to cut and glue them.  They may be much more valuable than you think.

I placed the cards on the background paper using double-sided tape.  You can also use a liquid glue.  Adhesives such as foam mounting tape, rubber cement, and hot melt glue would add too much thickness to the design.

The King card was cut along the bottom-left corner to follow the curve of the paper.

Once the cards were in place, the background paper was placed face-down onto the bottom of the paperweight.  Because of the way the paperweight is designed, you won't be able to notice if your cut line along the edge of the paper is not perfectly even.

The final step is placing the adhesive pad (included with each PhotoWeights paperweight kit) over the bottom surface.

I hope you liked seeing how this paperweight design was made.  If there's a particular type of item or craft you would like me to feature on our design blog, please let me know.