Framing a Photo in a Paperweight - Greeting Card Background with a Metal Frame Embellishment

This is the second paperweight design in my series on framing photographs.

If you're looking for easy ways to incorporate images into your designs, this step-by-step project can be modified to create a variety of different looks.

You'll need a few basic elements to replicate this layout.  I used the Oval Paperweight Kit (PhotoWeights: Oval), a greeting card, and a metal frame from a set of embellishments.  I'll point out some alternate materials as we go along.

I'm always using portions of greeting cards in my paperweight designs, especially greeting cards that are beautifully embossed with gold detailing.  In place of a greeting card you can use a scrap of decorative paper or fabric. Just be certain the material you use isn't too thick to fit within the paperweight you're using.

I used the display area template for the Oval paperweight (PhotoWeights: Display Area Template) to choose just the right area for my design before tracing a cut line.

TIP:  If you take one of our templates to the gift shop, you can see exactly how the design on a greeting card will fit within your paperweight.

 

Using a pair of sharp scissors, I cut along the traced line.

The cut-out from the card was affixed to the self-adhesive mounting board (included in each paperweight kit).

I created a reference mark in the center of the background, using a ruler as a guide.

The metal frame I used is the smallest of two included in a package.  These are made by Momenta.  Your local craft store should have a selection of embellishment frames to choose from in a variety sizes, shapes, colors, materials, and finishes.

If you'd like your frame to be a particular color, you can always paint it to match.

When you're working with the Oval Paperweight Kit, as well as other paperweight styles that limit the thickness of the items you can display, be sure to choose frames with a thin profile that will fit comfortably.

The 'x' I marked on the background helped me center the frame.  Once I checked the frame with a ruler to make sure there was an even amount of distance on all sides, I traced around the inside opening of the frame (in case the frame shifted).  I wrote down the distance between the edges of the frame to the end of the mounting board.

The frame I chose has a center opening that measures 1" square.  The photo was sized in a photo editing program to slightly more than 1".  When I cut the photo out, I left some additional material so there would be enough paper to glue to the frame.

Be sure to trim the photo if any edges are visible from underneath the outside edge of the frame.

The frame originally had two strips of self-adhesive foam tape on the back that I removed.

I applied glue around the opening for the photograph, making sure I used just enough to hold the photo in place.

When I'm working with metal, my favorite glue is Liquid Fusion from iLoveToCreate.  It's a clear urethane glue that's transparent and works well with both porous and smooth surfaces.

To prevent any glue from getting onto my work surface, I placed the photo on a scrap of cardboard and lowered the frame (with glue on the reverse side) onto it.

Let this set for about 5-10 minutes or until the photo is securely attached.

Now that the glue between the frame and the photo has set, you can apply adhesive to the back of the photograph.  Keep the adhesive from the edges so you can make adjustments without getting glue onto the background surrounding the frame.

Using your marks as a reference, place the frame in the center of your background.  Use the measurements you wrote down previously (the distance between the outside edges of the frame and the end of the mounting board) to make adjustments so it's perfectly centered.

Here's a close-up view showing the embossing and gold detailing of the greeting card artwork.

IMPORTANT

Before you seal your finished work in the paperweight, it's important to allow the adhesive to dry completely.  If you don't, evaporation from the glue may cause the inside of your paperweight to become cloudy.  I always recommend waiting 24-hours, depending on the type of adhesive and how thick it's applied.

Clean your paperweight with a streak-free glass cleaner to remove any dirt, dust, or finger prints.

After the glue in your artwork has had time to dry, place the mounting board face-down in to the recessed area on the bottom of the paperweight.

To finish, apply the self-adhesive bottom pad (included with each paperweight kit) across the bottom surface of the paperweight.

When you order a paperweight kit at PhotoWeights.com, you can select your bottom pad in your choice of three colors; black, burgundy, or green (shown above).  The only exceptions are the Dome, Heirloom Dome, and Deep Dome.  These styles are only available with black pads.

Displaying an Embossed Metal Finding in a Glass Paperweight

I really enjoy working with embossed metal, especially vintage findings I pick up on Etsy or in flea market junk bins.  These days you can also create your own embossed, metal artwork using a variety of tools and machines from companies such as Sissix.

Vintage findings are typically made from thicker, sturdier metal.  These pieces have a lot of shape and dimension.  That's fine when you're creating art for a dome paperweight, or other paperweight styles that have a deeper recess (more ceiling height to the interior space).  For a paperweight like the Oval (PhotoWeights: Oval Paperweight Kit), there's not much room to work with when it comes to depth.  This is where a little creativity (and a hammer) come into play.

For this project you'll need a paperweight kit, a metal finding, and some decorative paper, fabric, or other material to use as your background.  You can also add some other embellishments if you'd like.

For the background I used K&Company's Jubilee Bright Flowers scrapbook paper.  Using a template (PhotoWeights: Display Area Template), I selected an area of the paper and traced around it with pencil.

After I cut the paper along the trace line, I adhered it to the adhesive side of the mounting board (included with the paperweight kit).

If your metal finding has any fastener tabs, remove them with a pair of needle nose pliers by bending them back and forth a few times.  Use an emery board to smooth out any rough spots of metal this may leave behind.

If you're working with a finding that has a lot of depth and dimension to it, flattening it may make it look like it's been run over by a car.  (The smashed face of a cherub may not be the look you're after.)  Pick a finding that is already fairly flat.

To flatten the metal finding, place it between two pieces of cardboard before using a flat-head hammer to strike over the entire area.  Use a gentle amount of force.  Continuously check the progress of your work to make sure you evenly flattening all areas of the finding.

Once the finding has been flattened enough to fit within the paperweight, clean it with glass cleaner to remove any dirt, dust, or debris before applying tacky glue to the back.  Be sure to keep the glue a safe distance from the edges to prevent it from seeping out when the piece is applied to the mounting board.

Tacky glue is perfect for this application because it will stay in place and won't run.   (I used Aleene's Original Tacky Glue).  I don't recommend hot melt glue when the thickness of your artwork is very limited.

Gently position the metal finding onto the background.  Any glue that becomes visible may be removed with a lightly moistened Q-tip.


After the glue has dried completely, follow the finishing instructions that come with each PhotoWeights paperweight kit.  This involves placing the artwork face-down into the recessed area of the paperweight and covering the underside of the paperweight with the adhesive bottom pad that comes with each kit.

Applying Charms and Accents to the Top Surface of Your Paperweight

I love finding new products to use in my paperweight designs.  The latest is a collection of charms called art-i-cake by Amy Labbe (Distributed by Horizon Group USA, Inc.)  The designs truly capture the look of handcrafted pieces I've seen in magazines featuring mixed media artwork.  The quality is also much higher than many other charms and findings sold in typical craft stores.

Amy Labbe's line of charms (pictured above) includes some pieces thin enough to fit the display area depth of most of our paperweight kits.  Unfortunately, many of the larger, statement pieces are far too big.  The solution?  Think outside the box... or the paperweight.

This idea post is all about taking advantage of the prime real estate on the top surface of your paperweight by applying charms, decorative accents, and other items.

For this project I used the "Sassy Girl" charm (Item AL44251, UPC 765940442517) which came on a card with a cute shoe charm I'll save for another project.  I also used PhotoWeights Oval Paperweight Kit.

I applied a clear urethane glue to the reverse side of the charm (Liquid Fusion).  Choose a maximum strength glue that will bond to glass, as well as the material being glued to the paperweight.

Here's how I applied the charm to the paperweight.  Because the glue will run, I left the charm face-down on my work table.  After cleaning the top surface of the paperweight with glass cleaner,  I slowly positioned the paperweight over the charm and lowered it into place.  Once the glass made full contact with the glue, I carefully turned the paperweight over, made sure the charm was centered, and allowed the glue to dry thoroughly.

After the glue has dried, and your charm is securely bonded to the glass, you can place a photo, decorative paper, fabric, or other material underneath the glass to act as a background.  (Simply use the finishing kit that comes with each paperweight kit.)  You can also leave the paperweight as it is if you prefer the look of the clear glass.

I'm a huge fan of scrapbook paper that's sold by the individual sheet.  Don't be afraid to play with patterns.  In the photo above, I show the paperweight against two very different papers - solid green and a black and tan damask.  As you can see, the result is two very different looks.  This sassy girl paperweight called for something bold!  (Recollections, Black and Tan Damask, 12" x 12" scrapbook paper, Michaels).

I hope this post has given you some new ideas on how to design and finish your paperweights.  If you have any questions, or if you need some help or advise on a particular design dilemma, please don't hesitate to send me an email or leave a comment.  I'm always happy to help.

Creating Old-fashioned Paperweights with Antique and Vintage Photographs

I love to create old-fashioned paperweights with antique photographs.  It's a wonderful way to display long-forgotten images that would otherwise remain in album, box, or dresser drawer.

When you're working with family photos, I recommend scanning the images to your computer so the original photo will be preserved.  This will allow you re-size your images and add text using a image or word processing program.  You can also print duplicate copies to create additional paperweights as gifts or mementos for an upcoming family reunion.

Many antique shops have a variety of photographs available for sale.  I call these instant relatives.  I'll often flip through boxes of snapshots and cabinet cards, looking for interesting photos to add to my collection.  (I collect photos of farm houses, cats, and children holding teddy bears.)  Look for images that can start a conversation.  These make the best paperweights.

For a touch of whimsy, add a balloon caption that reflects a funny thought the person in the photo may have been thinking. This can transform an ordinary photograph into something truly special.

Something Old is Something New

With April just days away, I thought it was the perfect time for me to flip through my antique postcard collection in search of Easter themed cards.  I found a few, including the cutest card (postmarked 1916) with artwork that features two little chicks and Easter basket filled with eggs and flowers.  The design is embossed, giving it a little depth and texture, making this paperweight even more special.

If you've followed my projects over the years, you know how much I absolutely love creating paperweights with antique postcards.  They're so easy and affordable!  Most antique shops will carry hundreds of designs ranging from $1.00 to $3.00.  If you need help choosing the right one, bring your paperweight with you so you can see exactly how the artwork will look.